Impressive mountains, lush green gorges, rushing rivers, rich vegetation, architectural monuments, and natural wonders By food journalist Dimitris Stathopo
Impressive mountains, lush green gorges, rushing rivers, rich vegetation, architectural monuments, and natural wonders.
Tuesday morning, and the sun's first rays define the Argosaronic Gulf's color. Our destination is Kalavryta, on a visit aimed at decoding the travel status of a region that ranks among top winter destinations.
The white Peugeot 3008 SUV, steady and comfortable, creates a feeling of safety while intensifying our mood for a short break from the city. We use the car's mirror-link capability and through Amalia's (our photographer) premium Spotify, we "listen to Socrates," as she says, not accepting my intense pleas for small parentheses with more popular choices. Throughout the trip, our driver will be the navigation system, standard equipment in all 3008 versions.
Tetramythos Winery: Biodynamic Pioneers
We leave the Corinth Isthmus behind and at the fork follow the route toward Patras. The road alternately approaches and distances from the waterfront. First clouds appear as we approach Derveni. At Diakofto, we gradually catch the uphill. A winding road will lead us to Kalavryta. But before that, we have a stop at one of the Peloponnese's most pioneering wineries, Tetramythos winery, which for years has focused on natural wine production and biodynamic vineyard management. We meet Panagiotis Papagiannopoulos, who gives us interesting details about the estate's operation, created in 2004, but three years later, in 2007, completely destroyed by fire. It took just one year to reopen, now producing two wine series, organic and natural. "We produce 24 total labels, 10 of which are organic wines and the remaining 14 fall into the natural category," Panagiotis tells us, informing us that 85% of production is exported to 22 countries. With Dimitra's help, an amazing oenologist providing useful information about the process and winery, we pass through all spaces including the characteristic cellar with iron protective bars.
Mega Spilaio Monastery: Built into the Rock
Climbing toward Kalavryta, and although our program has a visit to Mega Spilaio Monastery the next day, you can't see this stunning sight and not stop. Amalia prepares her camera, takes some shots through the Peugeot 3008 windows, and whispers: "I'll fly the drone here." The Monastery is stubbornly stuck to a vertical rock, creating awe. Inside the church are preserved frescoes from 1653 and an amazing wood-carved iconostasis.
Zachlorou: A Village of Stories
It's drizzling when, after our stop at Mega Spilaio Monastery, we're at the fork toward Zachlorou. A village full of stories, images, and legends. We'll visit another day, but today we can't miss being here at the first meters of the turn to Zachlorou, where leaves from plane trees have made a beautiful coffee-yellow carpet. We enjoy unique images, and once again it's clear in my mind that every season has unique beauty to display. The fog has fallen heavy, but the Peugeot Full LED Technology headlights with "Foggy mode" function for low-visibility driving and SDL (Static Directional Lighting) function optimize visibility in curves, making driving even in fog a fun and safe game. Let's follow the flow and enjoy everything this way. Amalia talks to herself again. Whenever we're facing beautiful images, she makes her own plans, looks for the right perspective, and generally seems to enjoy it.
4seasonsoutdoor: Nature Activities
We arrive in Kalavryta and it's almost noon. I talk on the phone with Kostas from 4seasonsoutdoor, where he and Nikos are waiting to plan some nature activities in Kalavryta. There's no snow yet, and it's an ideal opportunity to see what else one can do in the region beyond the ski center. We're here where visitors prepare to go up the mountain and participate in activities. Suits, boots, waterproofs, windbreakers, and various other things I don't know exactly what they are. We're ready and start for the mountain. Nikos Prionas and Kostas Kakavas guide us. We walk the path toward Keramidaki, passing some centuries-old chestnut trees. "Their age has been calculated at 700 years," Nikos tells us, adding that "these trees have died in some parts but continue to live and bloom in Spring." We reach the amazing chapel of Agios Ioannis, atop a small hill, hidden among giant trees.
Evening in Kalavryta Town
Evening finds us in the settlement's square. We take a walk on the pedestrian street, strike up conversation. Anthi Zisimopoulou has her ceramics workshop here, Komokoi. She makes elegant, mostly functional ceramics and stays here year-round. She's happy with her daily life, and as she tells us, returned to where she grew up wanting to live a simpler and calmer everyday life.
The next morning's temperature is near zero. The Peugeot 3008 is equipped with heated seats. We start and begin a day we hope will bring us beautiful images and nice stories of people.
The Peugeot 3008: Premium Comfort
The Peugeot medium SUV stands out with its dynamic appearance emphasizing its premium orientation. Its special characteristics include both its emphatic grille and vertical LED daytime running lights.
Premium is also the particularly quality interior determined by the i-cockpit in its most recent digital version and the small steering wheel, a recognition element contributing to creating a special style characterizing all Peugeot SUVs. In the 3008, this style is enhanced by the central console separating the driver's position from the passenger's, while the 10-inch touchscreen in the dashboard center makes climate control settings selection very easy.
Just below the screen, beautifully designed buttons allow direct access to continuously used functions like radio or climate system: a capability that vertically increases practicality and comfort and proves attention given to every detail.
In demanding curves, the diesel engine maintains torque at high values without requiring continuous gear changes.
Comfort is ensured by large spaces for up to five passengers and their luggage. Characteristic of the Peugeot 3008 is also its large engine range, including gasoline and diesel units (1,200 and 1,500 cubic respectively) and plug-in hybrid propulsion systems with 225 and 300 horses. The most powerful is also four-wheel drive, while both can cover up to 59 kilometers purely electrically. This means most daily commutes can be done very economically with minimum environmental burden, while both are exempt from company use tax.
Kalavryta Massacre Memorial
A first stop at the fallen monument is required for every visitor to this martyred place, where on December 13, 1943, one of the greatest atrocities occurred. Here at the Kalavryta Massacre, German soldiers executed the entire male population, then proceeded to total settlement destruction.
Lousoi and the Apanokampos Plain
The few but intense curves that follow will lead us to the hilltop above Kalavryta. Here where trees strive to cover every free space. Climbing and approaching the turn to the ski center, the fog has fallen very low, making the image even more magical.
We continue for several kilometers toward Planetero. The weather clears, and before us spreads Apanokampos or the Lousoi plain, covering approximately 10,000 acres. A huge area, a cultivable plateau. At Lousoi, we make a brief stop and visit the now-ruined old elementary school. The images are powerful. Broken glass and doors and some books from those taught in elementary school in the mid-80s. How much joy, how much laughter, how many friendships, but also how much sadness in this building. Everything has given way to desolation. However, we learn this building is planned for restoration and use as a space housing old tools from life and work on the plain.
Here in Lousoi, or otherwise Soudena, are also the ruins of Ancient Lousoi. It was one of the region's most important cities, with first references found in 708 BC. It was a Sanctuary of Panhellenic scope, while the temple of Artemis has also come to light. Regarding the area's previous name, "Soudena," there's a connection with the corresponding Zagori area. Specifically, this name is owed to the historic Petimezas family, who settled there in the 17th century coming from Zagori's Soudena in Epirus.
Petropoulos Dairy: Farm-Fresh Cheese
Driving across the plain, among corn crops and endless clover fields, we arrive at Petropoulos dairy. Christos welcomes us and is ready to show us the entire production process. We see the dairy, then go to the plain where animals are enjoying fresh green grass. Petropoulos dairy produces excellent feta, graviera, mizithra, anthotyro, butter, and sheep yogurt. Christos grew up in the dairy. He knows every inch of this plain and very quickly decided he wanted to engage and continue the business his father Panagiotis Petropoulos started in 1992.
Cave of the Lakes: A Geological Marvel
Next stop according to the program is the Cave of the Lakes. Discovered in 1964, years later work was completed making it visitable. It features 13 successive terraced lakes, an element making it stand out among all planet caves. During the tour, visitors can walk the cave's first 500 meters via a special ramp. The cave's total length is 1,980 meters. During our cave tour, the guide informs us in detail while we watch spellbound the stalactite decoration and amazing natural formations.
Meeting Michalis and His Flock
On the route toward Planetero, we meet Mr. Michalis on the road, who's brought his animals out for food. "In summer I take them up the mountain and bring them here only for winter's difficult months," he tells us there at the roadside. He brought them down from the mountain a few days ago, and as he tells us, spends his time listening to sport fm and drinking some wine. He stayed 35 years in Athens, in the Gyzi area, and is a Panathinaikos fan. He's not happy with the team's course but maintains hopes for the future.
Planetero: Trout Farm and Honey Production
At Planetero, in a fairytale landscape with plane trees and the cool rushing waters of Aroanios river, Giorgos Rapanos deals with trout farming. At the shop he maintains in the space, visitors can taste trout cooked in various ways, even smoked, as Giorgos prepares it in the smokehouse.
There at Planetero, we have another meeting, with beekeeper Vasilis Koutroulakis, who has dedicated his entire daily life to high-quality honey production. Next to the hives (we kept a safe distance), he explains about this unique bee society and its importance for all our lives. This is Korys honey, which has won many awards, which as Vasilis notes gives him even greater motivation to continue even more. He produces fir honey, oak honey, forest honey, chestnut honey, mountain flower honey, thyme honey, and carob honey. We visited the model laboratory he maintains on the road from Planetero toward Klitoria.
Klitoria: Historic Market Town
With Vasilis, and his phone not stopping ringing as he's also taken on deputy mayor duties, we sat in Klitoria's very beautiful and recently renovated square. Its old name is Mazaika, owed to the fact that here Mazi village residents had their gardens. In 1830, it became an important commercial center, while during German occupation, the settlement was looted and destroyed to a large extent one day after the Kalavryta Massacre.
Priolithos: Maria's Legendary Rooster
The day approaches its end. I've been waiting hours for the next stop: a visit to Priolithos, where Mrs. Maria at Lithos will have prepared her specialty. Rooster with pasta. Amalia whispers when we see a nice view. She's probably thinking about another shot. She wants to fly the drone. She wants me to leave her at a point and redo that road section so she has an even better shot. On the other hand, I'm thinking about rooster with pasta and accelerate.
Indeed, we've already parked, and in zero time, we're by the fireplace, with little Thaleia, Mrs. Maria's granddaughter, next to us drawing. Amalia thinks about more shots and with the parents' permission photographs the little one in various guesthouse spots. A beautiful small guesthouse with attention to detail. Mrs. Maria's breakfast becomes irresistible. Local products, local recipes. The fried breads are amazing, the pumpkin pie and cheese pie with delicious crispy phyllo and nice filling. I can't wait for the rooster with pasta. I'm probably already anticipating tomorrow's breakfast. Even now as I write this text, I clearly remember that taste. We also learned Mrs. Maria prepares meals but only by reservation (26920 22768, 6974731904), while breakfast is standard for all who stay in the rooms. Obviously, no one wants to come here and miss this opportunity to start their day with all these good things.
The next morning, the Peugeot 3008 took the return road. We arrived in Athens rested. This feeling of peace in its movement is catalytic for the trip. We enjoyed it. Both the trip and the Peugeot 3008.
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