Mountains, ancient plane trees, crystal-clear waters, an archetypal square with stone fountains and artisan coffee Discover Greece with a local expert.
Mountains, ancient plane trees, crystal-clear waters, an archetypal square with stone fountains and artisan coffee.
Third morning in motion. Endless time, and I know in advance that the whole week will unfold this way. I know my safety valves. I pack a tiny suitcase and Friday early morning I set course for my refuge village.
Ano Poroia, Serres prefecture, Greek-Bulgarian border. Mountains, ancient plane trees, crystal-clear burbling waters, an archetypal square with stone fountains and artisan coffee, and a breath away from other Balkan countries.
After so many visits, I feel it a bit like a second village of mine. Yet, it never stops surprising me and I keep discovering new things. New people, new flavors, new hangouts.
Shortly before noon, I park in Ano Poroia's square, and like a local (adiós, hasta luego, ciao), I head to the chicest hair salon in the area, which is literally downtown. A jewel of a salon that could easily be in one of the best neighborhoods of a big city. With a color corner, reception lounge, and especially with Nadia at the helm. Tasteful, refined, and dynamic, she chose to return to her village and here build her family and set up her business. Instead of closing and withering away the old grocery store that her grandmother set up and operated for years (along with her mother), she transformed it into a jewel for the village and the square.
A relaxing hair wash from Katerina's hands and a masterful haircut from Nadia's hands, and I already feel brand new. Like all the tension of work, congestion, and Athens pressure fell away from me. Tireless, inventive, and active, Nadia also set up a small boutique for women's clothing inside the salon, with unique pieces. While I'm getting my haircut, two young girls try on impressive coats. Once again I exclaim that this village has everything.
Nadia Salon Hair, central square of Ano Poroia, Tel: 23270 51511
Refreshed and hungry, I climb toward the forest, to my favorite food choice in Poroia: "Pestrofes" (Trout). I'll never stop repeating how different a travel experience is off-season. It's a quiet winter Friday, and the gastronomic experience I'm having in a place I know well is even more interesting. The story of the place and its people is largely known. Two inspired people, Dimitris and Roula, nearly forty years ago created a trout farm inside the forest and in the icy waters of Beles.
Gradually, next to the fish farm, a now-legendary taverna was set up that evolved into a true gastronomic landmark, not only of the area. Smoked trout, grilled, its fillet, with authentic delicious salads, are a basic gastronomic reference for anyone exploring the surroundings. Although it's Friday, groups from Thessaloniki have already arrived to enjoy its cuisine. The fireplace roars, the renovated balcony ensures impressive views of the winter plane trees, and I can't wait to taste their new dishes. The place has been in the hands of the second generation for years, which literally gives its all in the kitchen. Besides classic dishes, they now prepare a series of daily specials, depending on the season and ingredients they find in the market. One surprise follows another.
Initially, the famous fish soup with a slice of toasted bread arrives at the table. Ideal start. The trout carpaccio that arrives immediately after is one of the best carpaccios I've tasted. Ultra-fresh trout marinated for a few minutes in an aromatic citrus and vegetable broth. I continued with their classic salads and for the main, the trahana with buffalo kavourma was a wonderfully melted and delicious dish. I cast furtive glances at neighboring tables to enjoy, at least visually, the other daily dishes. Beet risotto with trout fillet, pumpkin risotto with buffalo, veal cheeks with kritharaki, lamb with kritharaki, and of course the now-famous buffalo clay pot that simmers for hours. A cuisine that's genuine, beloved, where nothing exists and nothing happens without reason.
Pestrofes Restaurant, Ano Poroia, Tel: 23270 51500, Instagram
I return to the village square, satisfied and happy. Nevertheless, I think a dessert will complete the village's taste experience. Classic hangout for sweet-lovers: Antonis's famous sweets. I find him in his white apron drizzling a tray with baklava bites filled with Aegina pistachio. The workshop smells divine. Two trays of tsoureki just came out of the hot oven. Dozens of little trays with airy galaktoboureko await their syrup. Seker pare, kazan dibi, revani politiko, kataifi, sarayli, kiunefe are already in the display cases. A sweet paradise. Oriental sweets have their place of honor. But fluffy truffles and chocolate pastries aren't missing.
Antonis, calm, methodical, and polite, while rolling the phyllo for a tray of hanoum burek, talks to me about his journey. From a refugee family with a grandmother from Constantinople, he learned the pastry chef's art in Thessaloniki. For 26 years, he's maintained this shop in the village square, doesn't stop experimenting for a moment, and treats village visitors with sweets filled with love. I leave the shop with the smell of fresh butter and caramel flooding me.
Patisserie "Antonis," central square of Ano Poroia, Tel: 23270 51525
I don't go far. Right below Antonis's Patisserie, a secret passage leads me to one of the most beautiful accommodations I've stayed in. An old carpentry workshop has been transformed into a gorgeous house. Despoina, Porogiote by origin, took her father's workshop and converted it into a dream home, where harmonious meets functional and original. Natural materials throughout, soft earthy colors, and abundant light flooding the space. Underfloor heating has turned it into a warm refuge. And its name: Casa Massina. Casa is the Vlach word for house, and Poroia was one of the region's most important Vlach villages. As Despoina explains, in the village they called the traditional wood stove "masina," which was lit in the one and only room that was heated daily all winter, and essentially the whole family lived there. Masina at the same time is also the machine, so it also becomes a reference to the space's past.
One of the machines, the carpentry belt, has been maintained and remained in the space. The house's minimalist decoration is completed by impressive artworks by recognized artists. In the dining room, a stunning painting by Christina Kalmari dominates. A transparent sculpture by Ingbert Brunk plays with light, while ceramics by Stelios Gkikas whisper stories inspired by Byzantium. A warm space, created for people to live beautiful moments.
The sleep I get is one of the most restful in recent days. I feel like I've been away from Athens for ten days. The smell of dough and baked caramel wakes me. Antonis's workshop has started, and the square is filled with fragrance.
Casa Massina, central square of Ano Poroia, Tel: 6944677617, Instagram
Common Questions
How do I get here from Athens?
Most destinations covered on this site are 2 to 4 hours from Athens by car. I always recommend renting a car rather than joining a bus tour — you control your stops, you can pull over when something looks interesting, and the drive itself is often half the experience in Greece.
What is the best time to visit?
April to June is my personal preference — the wildflowers are out, the crowds haven't arrived, and the light is extraordinary. September and October are equally good. Summer is beautiful but you'll share it with everyone else. Winter is underrated and deeply local.
