The old family wine press, with its stone arched vaults, was renovated and next to it was built an elegant stone boutique winery Insider guide by food jour
The old family wine press, with its stone arched vaults, was renovated and next to it was built an elegant stone boutique winery.
In Paradisi, South Evia, a new cell of wine creation has begun to flourish. An accomplished family, raised among the vines, decided to expand its vineyards and give a clearer shape to its love for wine. Thus, the old family wine press, with its stone arched vaults, which the Triantafylli family has owned for almost a century, was renovated, and next to it was built an elegant stone boutique winery.
Arriving at the Winery
We arrived at the hour when the sun softened and magically lit up the new shoots of the vineyard planted next to the winery. Mr. Giannis, the family patriarch, welcomed us and began the tour from the wine press. His words, a proper journey into images and words of another era. "The animals brought the baskets loaded with grapes here. They emptied them and we trod them so they'd ferment well. The must collected in this little jar (linos) and with the segkia (metal bucket that held 8 okes of must) we drew it up.
With the help of a funnel, we filled the touloumi (a skin bag from an animal, usually goat). Five segkia filled one touloumi. We loaded these on donkeys, mules, and horses and took them to the port, to Marmari. From Marmari, in barrels, with fishing boats, they were transported to Volos. Volos worked with must from Karystos," Mr. Giannis explains and emphasizes, "if fermentation had started, they emptied the must into the sea, threw it away."
Three Generations Unite
Mr. Giannis, with his three children, decided to make an old wine story flourish again, with today's wine terms. Vasilis, the son, has been in the vineyards for years and has managed to exemplarily cultivate 170 acres of owned vineyard with Savatiano, Agiorgitiko, and Assyrtiko. Sofia, the first daughter, after many years of work experience at the Karystos Wine Cooperative, also throws her forces into the venture. The second daughter Anna, sommelier and longtime collaborator in important Athens wine shops, comes and goes, gives direction, and thus the wines of Triantafylli Estate reached our table.
The Wines
In the hall with tanks and amphorae, Sofia first brings us 4 labels with the clever naming "1/2 kilo," white, rosé, red, and semi-dry white. With clear reference to the notorious "half kilo," which for whole decades was the classic order for a group in every taverna, the series consists of 4 honest, value-for-money wines that refer to the beloved convivial atmosphere of the taverna, but also respond to today's needs for good, bottled, everyday wine. Four labels with fresh, easy-drinking wines capable of transforming every meal into a celebration.
The Estate's Heavy Hitters
The estate's heavy hitters are 2 wines from Savatiano, grapes from vines over 45 years old. "Silosa" and "Silosa Barrel Aged." We ask about the name of these two wines and hear another enchanting story from South Evia. With Frankish dominance in Greek territory in the 13th century, Evia is divided into fiefdoms where each small Latin feudal lord builds his castle, as residence, fortification protection, and base for frequent attacks in times full of turmoil. One of these castles in southern Evia is the castle of Fylagra. Fylagra's stronghold is named Silosa, and oversaw the passage of ships southward and the bay Bocca di Silosa, Mouth of Silence. A bay that served as refuge for temporary anchorages that tied up until the usually rough weather of Cape Doro calmed.
We taste the fresh Silosa and enjoy its crisp acidity, together with aromas of melon and white-fleshed peach. In the barrel-aged version, ripe citrus, vanilla notes, and brioche dominate and surprise us. We swirl our glasses and enjoy its bright color, with sun rays entering through the small, like battlements, little windows of the winery. And we understand why the people from Triantafylli Estate were inspired by the Bay of Silence and with the name of their two wines decided to bring forgotten stories of their place back to the surface.
Visiting the Winery
The boutique winery was built from scratch with the goal of receiving visitors and guiding them through Evia's magical wine world. For now it's visitable only by appointment at tel. 6932553972, Instagram: triantafylliestate.
Common Questions
Where can I find this in Athens?
The Central Market (Varvakios Agora) on Athinas Street is the best starting point for any serious ingredient hunt in Athens. It's open weekday mornings and is genuinely one of the great food markets of Europe — chaotic, loud, and completely authentic. Go with a local if you can. I take people there on my Athens food walk.
What makes Greek versions of this different from what I've had elsewhere?
Greek cooking is obsessed with quality of ingredients, not complexity of technique. The olive oil is better. The tomatoes taste like tomatoes should. The feta is brined in whey, not plastic brine. When you eat the same dish in Greece vs. a Greek restaurant abroad, you're eating fundamentally different food.
