Journey to Nemea: In the Constellation of Agiorgitiko

A place renowned for vineyards, wineries, and wonderful wine varieties, with Agiorgitiko standing out.

There's a place just an hour and a half from Athens that seems blessed by all the gods and demigods of Olympus. Hercules gave his first displays of bravery here, Demeter sat to rest and find comfort, Zeus has had his temple here since the 4th century BC. But above all, Dionysus, who apparently sent his own son, Fliandas, to plant vines throughout Nemea, creating the country's largest wine-producing zone. More than 25,000 acres of continuous vineyard compose one of the most important wine-producing regions.

Over thirty wineries, nearly half of them visitable, compose the Wine Roads of Nemea and await to initiate you into wine's wondrous world. Inspired vintners and winemakers ready to guide you through their vineyards and cellars.

The Temple of Zeus, the stadium where the Nemean Games were held with a wreath of wild celery as prize, a tiny archaeological museum with treasures connected to antiquities smuggling stories ideal for a film. All this in a landscape covered with vineyards and cypresses. Nemea, the homeland of Agiorgitiko, is a place where anything can happen.

Enjoy the landscape, discover the courtyard of a meticulous winery to experience the surprise of a barrel-aged Nemea. Celebrate with a fresh Nemea and wink at a dessert Agiorgitiko wine with intoxicating aromas of raisin, dried plum, and mocha. Vineyards, cellars, traditional winepresses, touches of modern architecture, restaurateurs highlighting the place and its history, festivals and concerts in winery courtyards. The Great Days of Nemea.

Nemea's viticultural treasure has it all, and just an hour from Athens, it's the ideal destination for beginner and initiated wine tourists. A blooming bouquet of scattered wineries, 17 villages within one wine-producing zone, clever and bold people compose today's Nemea.

The Vineyard and Agiorgitiko

An exceptional vineyard by Greek standards, Nemea's vineyard is located in the namesake plain and at the foot of Mount Kyllini, across 25,000 acres. Depending on location, vines are between 200 and 850 meters altitude, with Agiorgitiko dominating the entire area. It owes its name to a small chapel of Saint George and is characterized by deep blue color, round berries, and thick skin. Agiorgitiko is a versatile variety producing exceptional wines. The versions you'll find: fresh from the tank, lightly aged, deeply aged, plus rosé, whites, the famous blanc de noir, and sweet dessert wines. Since 1971, the dry red wine Nemea belongs to the PDO category.

Ktima Semeli

First stop at a winery with history. Starting in 1979, Ktima Semeli became a reference point for Nemea's wine-producing zone and all of the Peloponnese. A true beacon for the entire region, atop a hill in Koutsi Nemea, a building of great architectural value was created. The winery was designed with respect for the environment and features a sculptural roof following the terrain's slope.

Its different levels exploit gravity, resulting in must flow during wine production happening largely naturally. With breathtaking views from all sides, it's an exceptional place for refreshment and a model for wine tourism.

To the south, Nemea's mythical vineyards spread out, while from the north, the view reaches the Corinthian Gulf and looks all the way to Central Greece. Ideal terroir that properly embraces classic Agiorgitiko plus selected international varieties. Solid expertise, continuous research, inspired and tireless people. An ideal combination that made the Estate's wines famous worldwide. Rare reds from Agiorgitiko, with the iconic Grande Reserve, the delicate Thea Mantinia from Moschofilero, the popular Oreinos Ilios combining Moschofilero and Sauvignon Blanc, the playful rosé Delear, write their own wine story and bring the land's taste to our glasses.

Palivou Winery

We continue our journey and reach another inspired winemaker, Giorgos Palivou and his namesake winery in Ancient Nemea. He has one of the largest continuous vineyards in Nemea and was the first winery in the area to create conditions to become visitable. This was an undertaking that functioned exemplarily following international vineyard models. Today, it's once again a step ahead, having created at the vineyard's highest point a "station" space where a train car has been transformed into a wine bar and on the station's "platform," visitors can enjoy the estate's wines with views over the vineyards.

Gaia Wines

We return to Koutsi, where Gaia Wines' winery, a modern industrial building from 1997, creates its own wine story. Research, innovations, experiments, and beloved popular wines accompanying our tables. From the famous Nemea to Anatolikos, the sweet wine from sun-dried Agiorgitiko grapes, Gaia constitutes a wine power in the region.

Sophia of Nature

In the same area, "Sophia of Nature" deals with grapes and produces a series of exceptional vinegars and grape molasses. A strong family business producing organic vinegars and petimezi utilizes its grapes and completes the range of the region's wine products.

It started in 2005 to utilize about 80 acres of owned Agiorgitiko vineyards, organically cultivated, in the Nemea PDO zone, and in 2006 completed the processing and bottling facility on the slopes of Koutsi village, overlooking Nemea's beautiful valley and its endless vineyards. In this environment, cooking classes and tastings are organized.

Talking with this facility's creators, Nikos Bouzinelos and Kostis Banagis, we learn that vinegars travel worldwide, while their goal is to give even greater emphasis to the space where cooking classes and tastings take place.

Alfa Leone

Alfa Leone is a business dealing with vinegar products for over 25 years. It began in 1992 when Vasilis Basaniotis started vinegar production, utilizing vineyards with Agiorgitiko. Balsamic vinegar, aged, with pomegranate juice, from white or red wine, and many more are the company's products, showing continuous growth. Speaking with Alexis Basaniotis, he gives us the mark of continuity, as he's planning construction of an autonomous vinegar production space within a privately-owned vineyard on Nemea's outskirts.

Kera Neme Hotel

We completed this journey, and I must mention a brand-new jewel Nemea acquired. It's the Kera Neme hotel, the town's first hotel, located in the center and built with significant references to the region's wine history. Its decoration is minimal and contains elements of luxury and discretion. It consists of 9 double rooms and has a cellar. The hotel expresses Maria Athanasiou and Christos Korakas's view regarding hospitality. Its name has allegorical references to the "great lady," to she who cares for us, who teaches us, to the very homeland that raises us. We sat in the comfortable modern lounge and tried a few of the limited but very delicious dishes: a burger with handmade bread, ravioli, pinsa, and ultra-fresh green salad. We accompanied them with wines from the region.

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Common Questions

Where do Athenians actually eat?

Not where you think. The best spots are in Koukaki, Kypseli, and Exarchia — neighborhoods with no famous landmarks, just honest tavernas where the owner's mother is probably still in the kitchen. Stay away from anything with photos on the menu within 300 meters of the Acropolis.

Should I book a food tour in Athens?

If it's your first time, yes — and not just any tour. I run a private food walk that covers Monastiraki, the Central Market, and Psyrri with 10+ tastings. But even if you don't do mine, do one. Athens food culture is layered and a good guide saves you days of figuring it out alone. See my best Athens food tours comparison.