The little island with the Ali Pasha museum and beautiful corners By food journalist Dimitris Stathopoulos.
The little island with the Ali Pasha museum and beautiful corners.
Without a name but known as "the little island," it has its own breath and simultaneously constitutes an essential excursion for whoever comes to Ioannina. It's Tuesday morning in mid-January. The temperature is good and we have sunshine. After a short walk in the castle town, we come out to the pier and wait for the little boat to take us across. Departures are every 30 minutes throughout the day and the trip lasts almost a quarter of an hour.
The Crossing
Starting out, we observe the interesting perspective toward the city's castle. We take some beautiful photographs toward the Castle and Aslan Mosque, as well as the lake itself. The calm waters of Pamvotida, combined with the bright sun, are the ideal setting. Seagulls, ducks, teals, and coots are just some of the aquatic birds we'll see on our route. A little boat comes from the opposite direction while the rowers continue their training uninterrupted.
In this lake also trains the Tokyo Olympics champion, rower Stefanos Ntouskos, who filled us with pride last summer by winning the highest athletic distinction, the gold medal at the Olympic Games. A family from Ioannina, with two small children, Iphigenia and Tommy, are going on an excursion to the little island. I see the children's impatience to reach the island. "We want to go to the forest that also has rabbits," Tommy tells me, while older Iphigenia likes the ride on the little boat.
Arrival and Exploration
In the last meters, we sail parallel to the shore, and among the reeds we discern boats, some abandoned and some not, small houses, and above the verdant hill with scattered monasteries. A bit more and we arrived. Getting off, we're in the heart of the shops with gifts and souvenirs.
We climb the stone-paved road to find ourselves in the first square and start the walk passing through the island's Byzantine and post-Byzantine monasteries. We start with the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos ton Philanthropinon, then Diliou, Eleousa, Metamorfosis, Prophet Elias in the island's center, Koimesis Theotokou, and Panteleimonos. Particularly in the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos ton Philanthropinon, the frescoes are of great interest, as the seven philosophers of antiquity are depicted: Aristotle, Plato, Solon, Chilon, Plutarch, Thucydides, and Apollonios. It's the third-largest monastic community, after those of Mount Athos and the Meteora. A complete circle of the island is almost 2.5 kilometers and worth planning as you'll have the opportunity to see its beauty in the best way.
Ali Pasha Museum
After the walk, we visited Ali Pasha's museum located in a cell of Panteleimonos Monastery. Here Ali Pasha was assassinated in 1822, and we had the opportunity to see exactly the spot through which bullets passed through the floor slits to strike and kill him. Also, we saw historical documents, weapons of the era, manuscripts, as well as the authentic costume of Kyra Vasiliki and other personal items of Ali Pasha.
According to tradition, the island's first inhabitants arrive here from the Mani region of the Peloponnese in the 17th century. However, the first references are placed chronologically in the 13th century with the founding of the first monasteries. It's inextricably linked with Ali Pasha and his death, while today it has about 100 houses. Its permanent residents are mainly engaged in fishing and tourism.
Farewell
We descend toward the pier and wait for the next little boat that will lead us again to the pier in Ioannina. We leave behind a place that struggles to stay alive, that tries to balance between development and preservation of its traditional appearance. In some points it succeeds, in others not. What's certain is that it's a point of unique natural beauty. The next day, we see it again as we climb toward Ligiades, the martyred village on the mountain slope, above the little island and opposite the city. You never tire of looking at it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Ioannina known for food-wise?
Ioannina is celebrated for Northwestern Greek cuisine — lamb dishes, savory pies, freshwater fish from Lake Pamvotis, and the city's bougatsa. The lakeside tavernas are unlike anywhere else in Greece.
How far is Ioannina from Athens?
Ioannina is ~440 km from Athens — a 4.5 hour drive or 1 hour flight. A great long weekend from Athens.
